Urea is a true multitasker. This ingredient helps rehydrate, prevent dryness, support the skin barrier, and exfoliate. It’s the perfect ally for deep, effective hydration while softening and smoothing.
We met with our Dermalab Manager and renowned dermatologist Jean Krutmann to answer your questions about this lesser-known ingredient such as — is it really possible to hydrate and exfoliate at the same time?
Together, we’re sharing everything you need to know about urea and our unique body care formulas designed to maximize its potential.
THE BASICS
UREAWHAT IT IS: A synthetic chemical compound with moisturizing properties, also found naturally in your body.
WHAT IT DOES: Depending on the concentration, urea can work as a hydrator or exfoliant. It also boasts additional benefits such as supporting the skin barrier which boosts elasticity.
WHO IT'S FOR: In general, it’s suitable for all skin types — but different concentrations can make it more suitable for some than others.
HOW TO USE IT: You’ll find urea in hand, foot, and body lotions or gel oils designed to hydrate and exfoliate rough, dry skin.
GOES WELL WITH: Pair it with other ingredients that help boost hydration such as hyaluronic acid or dexpanthenol.
DON’T MIX WITH: Urea isn't widely known for causing reactions with other cosmetic ingredients.
TRY IT IN: Uradin Lotion 10, Uradin Podos Gel Oil
What is urea?
Urea is an organic chemical compound widely used in skincare thanks to two main characteristics: it’s a small, polar molecule. Meaning? It can easily penetrate the skin. Plus, its polarity makes it very similar to water, helping it to work as an effective hydrator.
But there’s more — urea also acts as an exfoliant when used in higher concentrations. Thanks to its polarity, it can break the hydrogen interactions that hold skin’s proteins together. In other words, it modifies the way the skin’s proteins bind together to help improve overall texture.
Dr. Jean Krutmann echoed the compound’s benefits at our latest ISDIN Innovation Summit, “Today, urea is a widely popular ingredient in dermatology for its ability to improve the skin moisture barrier. It’s one of the most effective agents for both hydrating and exfoliating the skin.”
Did you know that urea is found naturally in your skin?
It makes up part of the NMF or Natural Moisturizer Factor.
What can urea do for your skin?
Urea is most well-known for its dual-action mechanism: deeply moisturizing and exfoliating. But that’s not all. It also enhances the absorption of other ingredients by supporting skin’s barrier structure, helping to retain water.
Here are all of the benefits urea has in store for your skin:
- Deeply hydrates: Acting as a humectant, urea draws moisture in from your surroundings and retains it, helping to soften and hydrate dry skin.
- Exfoliates: In higher concentrations, urea provides a keratolytic action. That is, it helps break down and eliminate dead skin cells, improving texture and appearance.
- Strengthens: Urea bolsters your skin’s natural moisture barrier, helping it fend off daily stressors and keep water loss at a minimum.
- Promotes elasticity: This super ingredient also supports skin’s building blocks, such as collagen and elastin, to help keep up its firm, bouncy appearance.
- Soothes: Some studies cite urea as an ideal choice for extreme dryness and specific skin conditions. Urea’s hydrating and exfoliating characteristics target flaking and dehydration, soothing dry, itchy skin.
For Dr. Krutmann, all of these benefits depend on the skincare product. He shared, “The ideal formula should help reduce transepidermal water loss, restore the skin’s moisture barrier, and have a texture that facilitates application and absorption.”
Find what urea concentration works best for you
Hydrating, softening, restoring — urea can do a lot for your skin. But when it comes to your daily body care routine, there’s only one place to start. What concentration best suits your skin type and its needs?
Low concentrations: less than 10%
Urea primarily acts as a hydrating humectant in levels under ten percent. You’ll find this concentration in body lotions, face creams, and even foot care products.
Moderate concentrations: between 10% and 20%
This mid-range concentration provides moisturizing and mild exfoliating effects. You can find it in products indicated for very dry skin.
High concentrations: from 20% to 40%
At this level, urea targets a buildup of proteins called hyperkeratosis that results in rough, thickened skin and nails. You’re most likely to find it in foot care products.
The formula matters
Yes, urea is already a natural part of your skin. But skincare products mark the perfect opportunity to amplify its power. As Dr. Krutmann explained, the real challenge is developing a formula that’s not only stable but also comfortable to use and effective at the same time.
It’s a challenge that we feel we’ve accepted and overcome. ISDIN Dermalab Manager Alba Villanueva shares, “We’ve been perfecting our urea formulas for over 40 years — we consider ourselves experts in this moisturizing and exfoliating super ingredient.”
“We’ve been perfecting our urea formulas for over 40 years — we consider ourselves experts in this moisturizing and exfoliating super ingredient.” Alba Villanueva, ISDIN Dermalab Manager
Over the years, it’s become a key ingredient in many of our body care products. Villanueva continues, “More than 300 studies support the effectiveness of our products, which have been tested on more than 3,000 users.”
How to get started with urea in your daily routine
Fortunately, urea isn’t too particular — it’s an ingredient suitable for all skin types and daily use. But if you’re wondering when and where to add it in, here’s a step-by-step guide:
1. Take a warm (not hot) shower
A relaxing shower is a daily ritual to look forward to. And even more so when it sets the rest of your body care routine up for success.
Hot water can strip your skin of its natural oils, disrupting the delicate balance of your skin barrier. Warm or cool water, on the other hand, helps to cleanse effectively without compromising your skin’s hydration levels. So dial down the water temperature for happy, comfortable skin that’s primed for the following steps.
2. Apply a hydrating body lotion
Ever heard that you should smooth on your lotion right out of the shower? It might just be true. Studies show that applying moisturizing lotion or cream right after showering can offer additional benefits, such as boosting skin’s water content.
Our recommendation: Uradin Lotion 10 provides long-lasting moisture and helps to re-establish optimal hydration levels in the skin. This fast-absorbing, non-greasy body lotion for dry skin works to restore your skin’s natural smoothness. Apply it once or twice a day, massaging until completely absorbed.
3. Say goodbye to rough, dry heels
Your after-shower moisturizing routine isn’t complete without paying special attention to your feet. Have you noticed roughness on your heels? It’s common in every season — due to wear and tear from footwear, changes in the weather, and even the natural effects of aging.
Our recommendation: Uradin Podos Gel Oil. This moisturizing gel oil helps eliminate roughness and thickening thanks to the additional exfoliating action of lactic acid and Bacillus ferment. Best of all? Its lightweight formula absorbs quickly, without leaving a greasy feeling.
Your questions answered
When should you not use urea cream?
Overall, urea is a suitable ingredient for all skin types, including sensitive skin. Its moisturizing and exfoliating properties are also known for being gentle. Still, it’s important to consult your dermatologist if you have any doubts or specific skin conditions.
Can you use hyaluronic acid with urea?
They’re an ideal combination! Both work to hydrate skin, drawing in and retaining water. And since they’re each found naturally in your skin, they aren’t known for stirring up any unwanted reactions. You can find hyaluronic acid and urea in Uradin Podos Gel Oil to help repair and hydrate rough, dry skin on the feet.
An everyday essential
Urea has already won over dermatologists and skincare insiders worldwide — what about you? Remember, its powerful properties can help exfoliate and moisturize within your daily body care routine. Get started with a urea body lotion or foot gel, stay consistent, and revel in soft, moisturized skin from head to toe.
References:
ISDIN Data on file
Celleno, L. (2018). Topical urea in skincare: A review. *Dermatologic Therapy*, *31*(6), e12690. https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.12690
Piquero-Casals, J., Morgado-Carrasco, D., Delgado, J., & Garre, A. (2021). Indicaciones de la urea tópica en dermatología. *Piel (Barcelona. Internet)*, *36*(10), 689–694. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.piel.2021.06.008
*Urea*. (s/f). https://www.cun.es. Recuperado el 10 de mayo de 2024, de https://www.cun.es/diccionario-medico/terminos/urea2020, Page AB171, ISSN 0190-9622.
Amy is a content strategist who turned a part-time obsession with skincare into a full-time passion. Her experience as a creative storyteller includes a range of lifestyle and technology topics across Washington D.C. and Barcelona. What’s in her travel bag? Eye contour cream and sunscreen, always.
