How do you choose the right serum for your age? Does it even matter? Skin is skin. But as it gets older, it starts to face different challenges. Wrinkles. Dark spots. Dryness.
That serum you may have loved in your 20s may not cut it anymore now you’re in your 40s. Or you may be scrolling through IG and come up a skincare brand for 50+ women who promises fast results and you’re wondering if it has something other bands don’t. Should you switch?
With the gazillion of serums on the market, making the right choice is a minefield. Worry not. I’m here to help. Here’s the complete guide on how to choose the right serum for your age. But first:
What Are Serums?
Skincare superheroes that are packed with active ingredients, such as antioxidants and skin lighteners.
Serums contain a much higher concentration of these goodies than moisturizers. Their texture is much lighter, too, so they penetrate more easily into the skin. That makes serums work better and faster than any other skincare products out there.
Basically, you’d be mad not to use one.
Should You Choose A Serum Based On Your Age?
Not really. Ok, I hear your complaints. This is an article on how to choose the right serum for your age and now I’m telling you that you don’t need to choose a serum based on your age? “Make your mind up, Gio!,” I hear you say.
Here’s the thing: you should not choose a serum ONLY based on your age. You should choose a serum based on your skin type and needs.
It just so happens that your skin type and needs can change as you get older. You need to know what to expect and how to address these concerns once they appear on your skin.
So here’s how to use this guide: look at the decade you’re in and ask yourself, am I experiencing this issue at this time? If so, go ahead and use one of the serums in your category. If not, great. Keep doing what you’re doing.
Best Serums For Your 20s: Antioxidants For Prevention
If you’re still in your 20s, your skin looks awesome. Soft, supple, glowy. What the heck do you need a serum for?
Prevention.
Your skin isn’t showing it yet, but sun damage, pollution, an unbalanced diet and plenty of other things are inflicting damage to it every day. If you don’t do something about it now, those wrinkles will turn up sooner than you think.
Enter antioxidants. They fight the free radicals that cause wrinkles and dark spots before they can wreak their damage There are plenty of antioxidants you can use, including Vitamin C, Vitamin E, ferulic acid, resveratrol, green tea…
Which one is better? None. Different types of antioxidants fight different types of free radicals. The more you add to your skincare routine, the better you’ll age. Said that, I am partial to 15% L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), 1% Vitamin E, and 0.5% ferulic acid.
Why? A study conducted by Duke University has found that this combination “provides meaningful synergistic protection against oxidative stress in skin and should be useful for protection against photoaging and skin cancer.”
BEST PICKS:
- Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day ($78.00): It contains the same active combination, 15% L-Ascorbic Acid, 1% Vitamin E, and 0.5% Ferulic Acid. Plus a big dollop of marula oil that makes the texture thicker and sticker. It’s also more hydrating, so if you have dry skin, it’s a good pick for you. Available at Boots, Cult Beauty, and SpaceNK.
- Paula’s Choice Resist Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($38.00): This lightweight, silicone-based serum is infused with a wide variety of antioxidants (including Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and Quercetin) to prevent premature wrinkles. Plus, Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and skin-soothers to reduce irritations. Available at Dermstore, Paula’s Choice, Selfridges, and Sephora.
- The Ordinary Resveratrol 3% + Ferulic Acid 3% (£5.50): This simple serum contains two of the most powerful, yet underused, antioxidants in skincare. You already know what resveratrol does. Ferulic Acid destroys THREE types of free radicals and boosts the effectiveness of sunscreen. If they’re missing from your skincare routine, this is a good way to supplement. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary, and Ulta.
Related: Common Antioxidants Found In Skincare Products
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Best Serums For Your 30s: Retinol For Wrinkle-Fighting
Fine lines are now starting to appear, especially around your eyes. Yes, already. Antioxidants help you prevent them, but they can get rid of them.
There’s only one family of actives that can reduce the damage: retinoids. They’re forms of vitamin A, the gold standard for treating antiaging. They reduce the fine lines and wrinkles you already have and prevent new ones from forming. How?
- They fight the free radicals that cause wrinkles
- They stimulate collagen production to firm skin
- They accelerate cellular turnover, helping skin renew itself faster
Common types found in skincare products include retinol and retinal. Derivatives like Granactive Retinoids are said to work just as well (from the manufacturers!). I’m still waiting for proof of that, so I only recommend retinol and retinal. If you want something stronger, you need to go prescription with Tretinoin.
The catch? Retinoids can be irritating if you’ve never used them before. Start with small concentrations once or twice a week and build it up from there.
BEST PICKS:
- MaeLove Moonlight Retinal Super Serum ($39.95): This retinal serum has a niacinamide + ceramide base to counteract the potential dryness and irritation from retinaldehyde. It also has fragrant oils that could irritate sensitive skin. But if your skin doesn’t react badly to them, it’s an effective and affordable option to consider. Available at MaeLove.
- Skinceuticals Retinol 0.3 Night Cream ($62.00): This cream contains only 0.3% retinol but it packs an anti-aging punch. It comes in a moisturising base, but you need to use a separate moisturiser to counteract the dryness of retinol. Available at Dermstore and Skinceuticals.
- Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Booster ($52.00): This high-strength 1% retinol booster has a moisturising base and plenty of skin-soothers to counteract the irritating effects of retinol. Use it on its own for maximum effect or dilute it with moisturiser if it’s too harsh for you. Available at Cult Beauty, Net-A-Porter, Paula’s Choice and SpaceNK.
Related: The Complete Guide To Retinol: What It Is, What It Does & How To Use It
Best Serums For Your 40s: Copper Peptides
This is the decade where everything starts to slow down, little by little. Skin is starting to lose its luster. It’s duller, drier and more uneven than it was before. What do you do about it?
I’m not a huge fan of peptides. I don’t care what brands and influencers tell you. There’s just not enough proof from independent research showing they work. The exception? Copper peptides.
Copper peptides are carrier peptides, a.k.a. messengers that tell your skin how to behave. Dr. Shereene Idriss, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Idriss Dermatology in New York, says “They work as signals telling our skin to produce more collagen where we need it the most. Carrier peptides, like copper peptides, deliver trace minerals to the skin to boost collagen.”
- Boost collagen, the protein that keeps skin firm
- Help repair wounds (again by boosting collagen)
- Have anti-inflammatory properties that calm down redness and irritation
- Hydrate skin, leaving it softer and smoother
- Have antioxidant properties to prevent wrinkles
This isn’t an absolute must-have. But if you feel your skin needs the extra help, now’s the time to add them in.
BEST PICKS:
- Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream ($68.00): This cream contains every peptide you can think of. Its lightweight texture absorbs quickly, moisturises deeply, and plumps up fine lines and wrinkles, so they look smaller. Available at Cult Beauty, Sephora and SpaceNK
- NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3:1 (£38.00): Unlike the old versions of this serums, you don’t have to mix it yourself. It works out of the box and keeps skin in a constant state of repair, making sure everything works as it should. The result? Your best skin day, every day. Available at Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty, Niod, and SpaceNK
- The Ordinary Buffet + Copper Peptides 1% (£28.90): An affordable serum that contains every peptide you can think of. It doesn’t work as well as the other products in this list, but if you’re on a budget, it’ll do. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Sephora, The Ordinary, and Ulta
Related: The Complete Guide To Glycolic Acid: What It Is, What It Does & How To Use It
Best Serums For Your 50+ And Over: Skin-Brighteners
Wrinkles, sagging, dark spots… Your skin is starting to show big signs of damage. You still need all the goodies that served you well before. Antioxidants. Retinoids. Glycolic acid. Peptides.
But now, it’s time to bring out the big guns to treat dark spots. That usually means hydroquinone, the most powerful skin lightener out there. Problem is, it’s a bit harsh and can cause a bluish discolouration in darker skin tones. Thankfully, this is rare, but why take the risks when there are so many gentler alternatives?
The most popular alternatives are Arbutin and Azelaic Acid. Just like hydroquinone, they reduce the amount of melanin your skin produces, so dark spots can fade away on their own, but are gentler on the skin. Azelaic Acid is well tolerated by people with sensitive skin.
BEST PICKS:
- Facetheory Lumizela A15 Serum (£24.99): This azelaic acid serum is enriched with skin-soothers like green tea and oatmeal to reduce dark spots, redness, rosacea, and irritations. Available at Facetheory
- Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster ($36.00): This booster contains both azelaic acid and salicylic acid, an oil-soluble exfoliant that can get inside your pores and unclog them from within. Great at treating acne, you can use it on its own or mix it with your moisturiser. Available at Cult Beauty, Paula’s Choice, Sephora, and SpaceNK
- The Ordinary Alpha Auburn 2% + HA ($11.50): A no-frills Alpha Arbutin serum with hyaluronic acid to plump up skin while fading away dark spots. Available at Beauty Bay, Boots, Cult Beauty, Look Fantastic, Sephora, SpaceNK, The Ordinary, and Ulta
The Bottom Line
There you have it, how to choose the best serum for your age. You should never choose a serum just based on your age. But if you’re in this age bracket and you skin starts to experience these issues, you now know what are the best serums to deal with them.
About Gio
Hi, I’m Gio. I’m a no-nonsense, tell-it-like-it-is skin coach and writer on a mission to help you achieve your best skin day ever – every day. I bust skincare myths and debunk marketing jargon to help you figure out what’s worth the splurge and what’s best left on the shelf – using science, not hype. I also offer skincare consultations to help you create the best skincare routine for your unique needs.
